Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Trip to Santo

Good Morning,

After Ambae, Andrew and I went to Santo to spend a week with the local volunteers there and to celebrate Kathy's birthday. Andrew is a fellow business volunteer stationed on Malekula. Kathy is a teacher stationed on Epi

Santo, like Efate, Epi, and other big islands, has a few small islands nearby. A group of us took a day trip to nearby Aori island. Pictured above from left to right are Kathy (Epi), Andrew (Malekula), Gene (Santo), and Michael (Santo).


Before we could leave, though, the boat driver had to wake up. Here he is taking a mid-day nap.

This is Luganville as seen from the water. Luganville is Vanuatu's second biggest town. There is a paved main road running from the airport, past a copra mill, and along the coast right through town. Luganville seemed to be about a kilometer or two long and two or three blocks wide and had the feel of a small midwestern town where nearby farmers come to resupply and socialize.

Aori island on the other hand has a small tourist area and not much else.

As you get off the boat to Aori, you will pass this tiny turtle tank made of concrete and shells. That little guy must get tired going around in circles all day.

This is a tam-tam, a traditional drum and statue that some villages in Vanuatu use to call meetings. They are now also used as decorative items. Tam-tams seem to usually have enlarged faces though they don't look very human. Some even have extra eyes and noses. This one looks rather stereotypical. Notice the necklace with two curved pig tusks around the neck. The pig tusk is a traditional as well as national symbol here. A man wearing two curved tusks like this would probably be a chief of some sort.

Some villages on Epi have tam-tams while others use a bubu shell, or conk shell, for calling meetings. My village just uses a big, loud metal gas can that you can bang with a hammer.

My idea of a vacation has changed over the past year and I'm satisfied with a well made cup of coffee at a cafe with a few friends. Being one of Vanuatu's urban centers, Luganville offers rare delicacies like hamburgers, cold beer, cake, and well made cappuccinos. That's Andrew, Kathy, and Michael above.

Did you notice the protective umbrella above our heads and the white notice on the tree in the back?

This is a real hazard.

This a painted tam-tam on the streets of Luganville. He stands just outside the town liquor store so I half expected him to be a typical cigar store Indian.

On my last night in Santo, I had an obligatory last shell of kava with Gene. Gene is a teacher at the local high school and was a terrific host, showing us around Santo and even letting me sleep at his house for two nights. Being a fully integrated local now, Gene brings his own cleaned out coconut shell to the kava bar.

I left Santo for Efate via the Santo International Airport. As I boarded the plane I noticed a yellow fire engine that looks suspiciously North Dakotan. Any ideas as to how that got here?

Back in Port Vila, I passed by the mama's market. Here are the flowers for sale right next to the sidewalk.

And here is another view of the market. Women from several islands will set up shop here for days at a time and some are regular representatives of their villages or areas. There is even a table that continuously sells roasted Epi peanuts.

In the photo above, you'll see lots of green bananas, brown coconuts, and since they're in season, yellow and green grapefruits.

Also chickens, 1000 Vatu (about $10) a piece.

So, my first day back in Port Vila ended with another beautiful sunset. After one week in Ambae, one week in Santo, and a few days in Port Vila, I'm ready to go back to Epi. I've been delayed the past few days because of a passing storm that prevented ships from leaving, but I'm told that today is the big day. At four o'clock I'll board the Big Sista (pictured yesterday) and leave for my own island. This recent trip to the capitol was unexpected, but pleasant. Until next time, farewell and may your travels be just as memorable and colorful as lovely Vanuatu.


-- Daniel --

16 comments:

  1. Hello! What a wonderful blog you have. I have just accepted my invitation to serve in Vanuatu, beginning this October. Your stories and pictures have a been wonderful to look over and helpful in developing my idea of what my 27 months serving in the Peace Corps will be like.

    I have a question for you: It appears hair is not a big deal to the locals, but they do have strict gender norms. As I thought I would be sent somewhere where assumptions were made according to length of hair, I have been growing mine out for almost a year (I prefer to keep it REALLY short). Do Ni-Vanuatu have any assumptions about American women and hair that I should be aware of, or can I finally cut all this stuff off?

    Kind of an odd question, I know. Thank you so much in advance if you find time to respond.

    Thank you again for sharing your experiences in such a way that I could stumble across them. Take care!

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